How to choose a chainsaw chain

A chainsaw chain is not chosen by the length of the bar, but by three values that must match your guide bar and sprocket exactly. This guide helps you find them in a few minutes.

1. The three values you need to know

1. Pitch — the spacing between the links, expressed in inches: 1/4", .325", 3/8" LP (low profile, also called 3/8" Picco), 3/8" or .404". It must be identical on the chain, the bar and the sprocket.
2. Gauge — the thickness of the drive links, which must match the width of the bar groove: 1.1 mm (.043"), 1.3 mm (.050"), 1.5 mm (.058") or 1.6 mm (.063").
3. The number of drive links (DL) — the links that run in the bar groove. This is what determines the actual length of the chain.

These three values appear in the name and in the "Specifications" table of every chain in our shop (for example: 3/8" — 1.3 mm — 52 DL).

2. Where to find this information

• On the guide bar — near the heel (engine side), most bars show the pitch, the gauge and often the number of drive links, for example "3/8" .050" 52DL".
• On the packaging of the old chain or in the chainsaw manual.
• On the chain itself — some manufacturers stamp a code on the drive links; it lets you look up the pitch and gauge in their documentation.

Note: the bar length (35 cm, 40 cm, 45 cm…) is not enough on its own. Two 40 cm bars may need 56, 57 or 60 drive links depending on the pitch and the brand.

3. Counting the drive links

1. Remove the chain or leave it on the bar, with the engine switched off.
2. Mark one drive link with chalk or a marker pen.
3. Count all the drive links (the teeth that protrude underneath the chain) until you come back to the marked link.

4. The right type of chain

• Full chisel — fast, aggressive cutting for heavy use in clean wood.
• Semi-chisel — more tolerant of dirty or frozen wood, stays sharp for longer.
• Low-kickback chain — recommended for occasional use and for small-displacement chainsaws.

5. When to replace the chain

• the chain produces fine sawdust instead of chips, or you have to force the cut;
• the cut pulls to one side;
• the cutters are worn down to the wear mark, broken or cracked;
• the chain is too slack even with the tensioner at maximum.

Check the sprocket and the bar too: a worn sprocket quickly damages a new chain. It is often recommended to change the sprocket every two chains.

6. Fitting, tension and safety

• Engine off and spark plug lead disconnected (or battery removed); protective gloves are essential.
• Fit the chain the right way round: on top of the bar, the cutting edges of the cutters point forwards.
• Correct tension: the chain does not sag under the bar but can still be moved by hand (with gloves). A new chain stretches: check the tension after a few minutes of use.
• Use chain oil and check that the lubrication is working.

Need advice?

Use our Find my chain tool: by the three values, by the bar code or by your chainsaw model. Still unsure? Send us the brand, the model and a photo of the markings on your bar — contact us.